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ITALIAN FOOD

4
servings
2
cups Carnaroli, Arborio or Vialone Nano rice
1 pound fresh ripe tomatoes
1 small onion, minced
3 tablespoons extra vergine olive
oil
4 cups vegetable broth
1/4 teaspoon saffron
3 tablespoons grated Grana Padano
or Parmigiano Reggiano
8 leaves fresh basil
salt
black pepper, freshly ground
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Risotto
d'estate Summer risotto
Risotto
should be all'onda when it is ready. This phrase, "to the
wave," reminds us that the dish should be moist: almost,
but not quite, liquid. The saffron you use will make a
difference in this recipe. Try various kinds until you find a
brand that has flavor and is intensely aromatic. Italian saffron
is generally better than Asiatic or Spanish varieties.
 | Dip
ripe tomatoes in boiling water for a few seconds. Immerse in
cold water and peel. Scoop out seeds and cut tomatoes into
small pieces.
 | Heat
the oil in a large, deep saucepan. Add onion. Salt and cook
over low heat, stirring constantly, until onion becomes
transparent.
 | Add
tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste and cook over high heat
for 15 minutes until almost dry.
 | Add
rice. Stirring constantly, allow rice to absorb tomato sauce.
When it begins to stick, add a ladleful of boiling vegetable
broth.
 | Raise
heat and add a ladleful of broth at a time until rice is
cooked, about 20 minutes. After 10 minutes, add saffron
diluted in half a ladleful of broth. Run your wooden spoon
across the bottom of the rice pot to determine when the
broth is almost completely absorbed and it is time to add
more. You should be able to create a clear wake behind the
spoon and see the bottom of the pan. Remember that risotto
should still be very moist when it is cooked.
 | When
rice is cooked, blend in grated cheese and torn-up bits of
basil leaves. Turn into a serving dish and decorate with
basil leaves and fresh tomato. |
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4
servings
1/2 pound (200g) trenette, bavette or linguine
1 large potato, peeled and cut
into small chunks
2 ounces (50g) young fresh string
beans, ends snipped off, cut in half
4 tablespoons or more extra
vergine olive oil
1 small bunch fresh basil
leaves, (small leaf, flowering, bush basil if possible) dusted, not washed
1 clove garlic
1 tablespoon pine nuts
1 tablespoon Parmigiano Reggiano
or Grana Padano, freshly grated
1 tablespoon Pecorino Sardo or
other sheep's milk grating cheesecoarse sea salt
Preparation time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 20
minutes
INDEX
RECIPES
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Genovese
Pesto with Potatoes and String Beans
Pesto
is one of the best-known and most-abused Italian sauces for pasta.
This version comes from the Levante - that means from the area to
the east of Genova, but just a few kilometers to the west the
recipe changes. A marble mortar is the proper tool for pesto
making. A sculptor we know has a theory that the Ligurians came up
with the original idea for pesto because of their proximity to the
marble quarries of Carrara. He says marble mortars perform magic
with basil. The plants fibers are crushed thoroughly to amalgamate
the flavors of basil, garlic, cheese and pine nuts with extra
vergine olive oil. The texture of pesto made in a mortar and
pestle has no resemblance to the soupy blend of ingredients that
results when a food processor is used. Extra vergine olive
oil from Liguria has a delicate taste with just a hint of
artichoke that goes well with the blandness of the potatoes and
the pasta.
- Put
4 quarts (4 liters) water and 2 tablespoons salt on to boil.
- Using
a mezzaluna or a large stainless steel knife, chop the
basil leaves, the pine nuts and the garlic until very fine.
- Put
the chopped mixture in a mortar and work it with a pestle,
adding 1/2 teaspoon salt gradually. The salt keeps the basil
green and aids in crushing the plant fibers. Drizzle in half
the olive oil, little by little.
- Add
the grated cheese a little at a time, working the pestle
continuously with a rotary movement, alternating with the rest
of the olive oil until the pesto is light green. The resulting
texture is almost like variegated grains of sand on a beach.
- Put
the potato chunks and the string beans into the rapidly
boiling, salted water. When the water comes to the boil again,
add the pasta and stir. Cook until al dente.
- While
the pasta is cooking, warm a large serving bowl and dilute
several spoonfuls of pesto with a tablespoon of cooking water.
Drain the pasta, the potatoes and the string beans when done
and pour into the serving bowl. Add enough pesto to coat the
mixture lightly. If too dry add a little cooking water. Toss
like a salad and serve immediately on warmed plates.
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4
servings
1 pound linguine
1 pound small, very fresh
zucchini
2 very fresh egg yolks, beaten
2 tablespoons extra vergine olive
oil
3 tablespoons
Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
1 medium onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced, salt,
black pepper, freshly ground
INDEX RECIPES
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Linguine
uovo e zucchine Linguine with egg and zucchini
You
can add any fresh herb you like to this pasta, for example parsley,
thyme, dill or marjoram. To blend in the egg yolks without having
them overcook on the hot pasta, dilute them with a tablespoon or
two of cold milk. This dish is a meal in itself. Its flavor
depends on the freshness of the zucchini and the eggs.
 | Wash
the zucchini, remove the ends and cut into very thin slices.
 | Heat
the oil in a large frying pan. Add onions and garlic. Cook
over low heat.
 | When
the onion begins to turn golden, add the zucchini, raise the
heat, and continue cooking for a few minutes to allow flavors
to blend.
 | Salt
and pepper the zucchini, lower the heat again, cover, and cook
for 15 minutes. Remove from heat when the zucchini are tender
but not mushy.
 | Cook
the linguine in 4 quarts of boiling, salted water. Drain while
still al dente.
 | Add
linguine to frying pan and stir with zucchini over moderate
heat for one minute. Remove from heat.
 | Blend
in cheese and then add the beaten egg yolks, mixing gently so
that they form a creamy sauce on the linguine.
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The
History of Pizza
Considered
a peasant's meal in Italy for centuries, modern pizza is attributed to
baker Raffaele Esposito of Napoli (Naples) in the Italian region of
Campania, who in 1889 created a pizza especially for the visit of Italian
King Umberto and Queen Margherita. The pizza, named Pizza
Margherita after the
queen, was very patriotic and resembled the Italian flag with its colors
of red (tomatoes), white (mozzarella cheese), and green (basil). Pizza
Margherita got rave
reviews and set the standard by which today's pizza evolved. The idea of
using bread as a plate came from the Greeks, who ate flat round bread (plankuntos)
baked with an assortment of toppings. The tomato came to Italy from Mexico
and Peru through Spain in the 16th century as an ornamental plant first
thought to be poisonous. True mozzarella cheese is made from the milk of
the water buffalo imported from India to Campagna in the 7th century. So
the Neopolitan baker, as the saying goes, put it all together at the
Pietro il Pizzaiolo pizzeria. Also, in 1830 the world's first true
pizzeria, Antica Pizzeria Port 'Alba in Naples, opened and is still in
business today! Pizza migrated to America with the Italians. The first
U.S. pizzeria opened in 1905 in New York City, but it wasn't until after
World War II when returning GI's created a nationwide demand for the pizza
they had eaten and loved in Italy that pizza went public. My first
recollection of pizza is homemade "box" pizza (Chef Boyardee)
with canned pizza sauce, hamburger meat, and parmesan cheese. In the late
1950's, Shakey's and various other mass production pizza parlors appeared
and further popularized pizza. Pizza in this day and age is not limited to
the flat round type. It's also deep-dish pizza, stuffed pizza, pizza
pockets, pizza turnovers, rolled pizza, pizza-on-a-stick, etc., all with
combinations of sauce and toppings limited only by one's inventiveness.
However, the best pizza still comes from the individual pizzaiolo, a pizza
baker, who prepares his yeast dough and ingredients daily and heats his
oven for hours before baking the first pizza. * piz' za, n. (It.) -
A baked pie of Italian origin consisting of a shallow bread-like crust
covered with seasoned tomato sauce, cheese, and often other toppings, such
as sausage or olives.
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